Rabbit Care Maintenance and Breeding

Rabbit Breeds, Rabbit Breeders, Rabbit Breeding

The rabbit has been domesticated for years and is adaptable to confinement rearing and close association with humans. Persons wishing to raise rabbits for fun, profit, or to supplement the family meat supply should visit other rabbit raisers and observe their housing, feeding, and management methods. Contact and join a local rabbit club as an excellent means of becoming familiar with related rabbit information.

Newcomers wishing to raise show stock should attend several rabbit shows before buying. Watch the judge handle the animals and compare breeds. Those choosing meat production should visit commercial meat

producers. Whether you raise rabbits for meat and fur, wool, laboratory use, or show stock, select the breed best adapted to that purpose. It is never economical to purchase inferior breeding stock. One good producing doe will make more net profit than several inferior ones.

Commercial rabbitries are set up for the production of meat at a profit. You’ll want a breed that will attain the required weight in a minimum of time, with the best dress-out, the type of fur that sells at a higher price,

and stock with a good production record. The medium weight breeds with white body fur (White New Zealands and Californians) are most popular for meat production, because they produce a more rapid growth and a uniform fryer. The market price of rabbit pelts is higher for white fur than colored because the white fur can be dyed to any desired color, while colored pelts have to be carefully matched and cannot be dyed a lighter color. The pelt market fluctuates greatly. Often no market is available for small lots of rabbit pelts.

Wool from the Angora rabbit makes a wonderful yarn and subsequently beautiful articles, but there is seldom any wool market available unless it is developed by the breeder through fairs, summer shows or marketplace contacts. For show purposes or as a hobby, almost any recognized breed will serve including show strains of the commercial breeds mentioned above. Rabbit shows are educational and fun. Breeding the colored and marked breeds is a challenge. To keep abreast of this ever-growing industry, all breeders should join specialty

clubs, and plan and attend shows or schools.

Health

The best way to keep your animals healthy is to stay away from sick animals or those with parasites, mange, respiratory, or eye problems. Keep your animals well fed and in clean, dry housing. If you have a sick rabbit,

isolate it. While doing daily chores, feed and care for the well rabbits first, then treat the patients and wash your hands.

Housing

Good housing is very important. The rabbits, while unable to tell you of their needs in housing, are expected to perform in your cages, raising large healthy litters. Visit other rabbitries and see the great variety of cages in use. In planning your rabbitry, you must decide whether you want single- or double-tier wire cages. There are

advantages and disadvantages to each. You’ll find it much easier to observe your stock if the cages are single-tier and at a building arrangements for future expansion.

Breeding

There are four methods of breeding: natural mating, forced mating, confined mating, and artificial insemination.

Natural mating—the best method to use. A doe shows signs of being ready for mating by restlessness and nervousness, by rubbing her chin on equipment, and by attempting to join other rabbits. External signs in

females are also associated with coloring of the vulva. Deep red coloration indicates the female will usually accept the male. Usually only one service is necessary. Females in season should be introduced to the male’s

cage, not vice versa. The natural mating method gives up to 90% conception.

Forced Mating—This method requires that females who do not immediately accept the buck be restrained by a person so the buck can mate. Conception rate by this method will not approach the natural mating system. Does which have to be restrained should be eliminated as soon as possible as their temperament and reluctance to mate are inherited factors.

Confined Mating—This method is not recommended because you do not know if mating occurred, and the animals may permanently injure each other. Eligible females are kept with a buck for anywhere

from 24 hours to several days.

Artificial Insemination—Semen is collected from males and introduced to females by artificial means. This technique requires experience and equipment for good success. At this time it is not a practical method to

consider.

 (Giant Rabbit )

Breed

The small breeds mature sexually earlier than the larger breeds. Small breeds may be bred at 4 months of age, medium breeds at 5–6 months, and large breeds at 9–12 months. Another method of determining breeding time is by weight. Breed does whenever they attain proper size (New Zealand and Californian at 7 lbs.). Proper feeding schedules thus insure earlier reproductive ages.

Start bucks one month later than does on a limited schedule and Take doe to buck’s cage; leave for one

service. After about two minutes return her to her cage. If doe fights buck, remove immediately. She may be restrained for service or returned several days later.

If the service is completed, the buck will fall away from the doe. If this characteristic motion is not observed, remove the doe and place with another buck. Doe ovulates about 10–13 hours after first service. Some producers take doe back for second service at this time. This doubles breeding time but may help conception

percentage during off season (July-October).

Experienced producers should gently palpate does 17 days after breeding to see if doe is pregnant. Litters will be lost if does are handled roughly. Rebreed does that have not conceived. In small herds, breed does twice to insure large numbers of viable sperm. In large herds when breeding daily, use bucks every day and breed each doe only once. When breeding weekly, bucks may service two or three does on the breeding day.